The Ale Trail: The White Hart Inn, Chippenham at Ford, UK

Parking's in the rear and then it's a short walk over the stone bridge to the pub.

We were nearing the end of our holiday, and yes, I had to dedicated my body to my art... you can’t write accurately about what you don’t know unless you get down and dirty and into your subject... so I forced myself to take great pleasure tasting Ales across the UK... I was quaffing my way across the UK...all through the pubs and supermarkets and when visiting friends and family I drank the best of beer... other peoples beer!  I put on weight, now imagine that!  I also made new friends this time around when we visited the beautiful White Hart Inn located in the tiny picturesque village of Ford just outside of Chippenham.  To get there drive straight East on the M4 from Bristol in the direction of London... exit at exchange # 18 and head south on the A 46 and then left (East) on the A420 towards Chippenham. Ford is about half way and you cannot miss it.

Ah, but what treasures await you're taste buds?

The White Hart Inn is a visually interesting old place... tour books mention a  carving on the fire place mantel that say's this building has been here since 1553... darned if I found it.  It’s decorated inside with odd bits and pieces to give it I will assume an authentic old feel. I would like to have visited this inn 50 years before as that would have been interesting. As our group entered the men went on up to the Landlord to order... the ladies commandeered a table off the main pub... it was time for good conversation while we waited for our table in the main dining area. 
  

Be certain to click on the photos to enlarge

Inside it's an old traditional pub

I suspect the White Hart is one of those must visit pubs tourists just have to go see. The landlord made light conversation mentioning the movie Doctor Dolittle was filmed right here on location in “1967.”  I was here for the Ale.... we ordered.

Keith the Landlord serving customers

We were here on the recommendation of good friends, they love this place and suggested we visit.  It's a funny custom for me to get used to... being an American, to not "just" go to your dining table but rather first have a pint and wait at another table, to then get up and move from where you just got comfortable and march through the main pub to the rear of the building into the main dining room... then again this place is a visual treat so there I was embarrassing everyone one in our party as I acted big time tourist snapping piccies as we walked along to our new table. 

The White Hart at Ford is situated in the Wyvern Valley with a stream flowing under a stone bridge... it is advertised as one of those “get away from it all” places where you will enjoy total peace and relaxation.  The stream under the bridge you cross from the parking lot is called the Bybrook River.  From inside the pub you can see the stream was channeled alongside the building and I suspect at one time there was a Water Wheel here.

Ford is a really small village.  I didn’t get out and do a recon like I wanted to as we were here for lunch on our way to Castle Combe.  I will have to go back when I research for the book I am writing in order to explore for a day or so to get my facts straight.  For now, according to readily available information, the area  is thought to have been inhabited for around 10,000 years.  The Bybrook is believed to have flowed through the same route for more than a million years. The village was established in the fifteenth century, and by the middle of the 16th century a woolen industry was here.   What I don’t know is if this pub was once called Ford Mill.  If it was then in 1725 it was a fulling mill.  I wrote to the land lord about this and have not as of this writing received a reply.  It might have been a fulling mill used to clean the wool to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and make it thicker... I need to confirm if this is true and if you know let me know in comments will you?

a quiet dining room away from the main lounge

It wasn’t all that long before we were called to our table.  The dining room is quite and nicely laid out.  We ordered drinks for our meal, looked at the menu, my wife and I went for the Crispy Pork Belly served with red cabbage, new potatoes and a sweet apple and cider sauce.  English meals in a pub can be hearty, and trust our portions were generous and tasty.  Len went for a Classic baked pasta served with garlic ciabatta and salad leaves, and Diane had the Gruyère Tart with leeks, caramelised onions and cheese sauce, served with new potatoes and green beans... I had not one but two Marston’s "Pedigree" ales.

Wasn't it Jake of the Blues Brothers who said, "I'm on a mission from God !"

After our meal while the "British caught up with conversation... I walked a bit more about the pub with my camera again photographing some of the details... I thought I might want to do a painting of this setting.

A future My Happy Eye Painting

Walking about the pub I found this old advertisement below for George’s Bristol Beer.  In February 1888 Georges’ first became incorporated under the name of “The Bristol Brewery Georges & Co. Ltd.” over the following years several local breweries were acquired by the company.  My brother in Law from Bristol and my father in law both said it was a very popular beer in it’s day.  Sadly it came to an end in 1999, when new owners Newcastle and Scottish decided to close down the business and destroyed the building to put up rental properties, it was located down near Bristol harbour... that’s progress for you.

George's Bristol Beer, gone but not forgotten, will someone bring it back?

Many pubs like the White Hart... that are situated in the countryside... well I find the stuff they display in some of these pubs to be rather tasteless... not so for the White Hart Inn... in fact I walked back to the Landlord to find out he and his partner had just taken over the pub from a previous couple.  He said they jumped at the opportunity to live here in Ford and run this place.  He then invited me to follow him to the keg room as he continued to talk.

Keith at the heart of "Mission Control," where all the magic happens

I have no idea how many an American tourist like myself have ever been invited down to the center of Pub universe, an excellent experience, clean, uncluttered, very organized and who knows how old this room is?  Ale, I was with kegs of ale and it just doesn't get much better when on the Ale Trail.

You want quiet?  We got quiet in the lonely village of Ford.

I stepped outside for some fresh air and walked up to the road we drove in on. Local estate agents advertise Ford as a small village offering a perfect retreat for anyone who wants to escape from the hustle and bustle of town and city life. Take my word it is certainly that.  Situated on the edge of the Cotswolds, there are several opportunities for walks along the river there are miles of unspoilt countryside all about with other small villages to visit, no argument here from me.

Keith & Sharon... The proud Landlord of the White Hart and "his" manager

I wish to thank Keith and Sharon for keeping alive an ancient British tradition... out in the country side of Ford, just outside of Chippenham... a short drive off the M4 on your way to Castle Combe.

Next Post:  Castle Combe 


The White Hart Inn, Chippenham at Ford:  Click Here

Marston's Ales: Click Here

Marston’s "Pedigree" Ale:  Click Here


George’s Bristol Beer History: Click Here