South Zeal is an attractive old village on the edge of Dartmoor, it is an ideal base for exploring the moor and West Country. It has a great village atmosphere with 2 pubs, a church and local shop/Post Office... The church is called the chapel of St Mary's and is located across the street just up hill from the village stores... in the centre of the village. It was rebuilt in 1713 and is next to a 14th century granite market cross which is said to be one of the finest to be found in Devon. This part of Dartmoor was the setting for Arthur Conan Doyle's The Hound of the Baskervilles, the classic Sherlock Holmes detective story. From South Zeal you look up toward the moors, and yes... it’s really a mountain... South Zeal is close to southern England's only two mountains, Tor and High Willhays... here can be amazingly strong winds that hit this part of Devon.
The name, Zeal, is from the old word Zele meaning “hall,” the town developed into the larger settlement when it was granted a charter to hold a weekly market and two annual fairs way back in 1299 AD... there’s 900 years of recorded history here. For much of the middle ages up until late in the 1800’s woollen manufacture was Devon's most valuable industry...spinning and weaving were the industry of South Zeal.
Early this morning we went early to the “village stores” to get fresh bread for our breakfast. The building that is home to the stores was constructed in the late 16th or early 17th century and has been central to village life in South Zeal for many years.
For my money South Zeal is one of the most beautiful villages to be found on the northern fringe of Dartmoor... but it is "Break and Clutch" country! Walking about town is for the hardy, but when you have time... and you are here... do it and make certain you buy a "Pastie" to keep up your energy levels when walking about this beautiful village!
Devon itself has over 3000 thatched buildings and has the largest number of medieval roofs in the world, some are over 700 years old. South Zeal is a medieval village between Exeter and Okehampton in the lea of Dartmoor, in West Devon. There are about a dozen cob or stone thatched houses in this village including a thatched pub... now on to Rosemoor!
After breakfast we headed out to Rosemoor... the original garden at Rosemoor was gifted to the Royal Horticultural Society in 1988. Created by Lady Anne Berry over a period of some 30 years, it has over 65 acres of beautiful formal and informal gardens, with woodland walks, water features and open spaces.
Driving those two lane country roads from South Deal to get to Rosemoor can be exciting... breath taking... that is to say if you are not used to the two lane English country side back road... well the first time will be an exciting time for you to travel... and how they trim back the hedgerows... well I find it most interesting... and yes it was raining on and off... the roads were wet... you have to love this sort of thing when visiting the UK because it will rain... almost everyday!
Although the day of our visit to Rosemoor was intermittent weather with mostly grey skies and overcast... by golly the sun did break through and when it did it was glorious... it did not let us down! About that rain... I suggest in order for you to have real English fun... just pretend you are on holiday to the English coast where for certain it will rain the day you go there no matter what the season... and for this garden... more for the arboretum... yes it will be certain to rain when you visit a National Trust year-round attraction.
We had a lovely walk around the extensive gardens (this was November!) and even though it was between seasons there still were flowers in bloom, to include roses and these daisies, and as I said, when the sun did break through it was glorious. For me I appreciate autumnal colours and prefer visiting this sort of place in the off season as when there is a chill you are guaranteed a low population count... and... well... so sorry “Mum’s” but your misbehaving whining little kiddies on those sunny days in the warmer weather drive me simply bonkers when visiting places like this... and I was on this day so very much enjoying the thought of your children having to be in school... and lucky for me today there was no class outing to steal the quiet.
Rosemoor holds over 70 special events throughout the year, which include creative workshops for children and adults, family days, craft fairs, musical and dramatic evening performances and horticultural walks round the garden... we were here to appreciate the beauty no matter what the season, and then it was time for lunch.
Ah Yes, I seemed to have worked up a thirst walking about all this vegetation, did you know Rosemoor has a licensed restaurant? With our mid day meal I ordered for my good brother in law and myself a Somerset Ale, a dark Ale... "Buzzard Dark Ale," from the brewery website we read... "A good winter ale. Darkly autumn coloured, hinting at the winter months to come. A restrained brown sugar sweetness is invigorated with dark luscious fruits on the prune and plum side of things. There's a delicious spanking tree bark bitterness. And the whole thing enveloped in an oaky mustiness..." Now that's a bit of a more floral description for this Ale, let me give it to you straight. It's the only ale in this place on offer, you do with what you have to do... it quenched the thirst... what more do you want? Ale or no ale when on the Ale Trail... I'm on a mission... got work to do... I say, "Drink it and be thankful for your blessings!"
You do not have to be a keen gardener to appreciate the beauty of Rosemoor... as mentioned you will find a diverse range of events taking place here throughout the year, and say you get bored... a bit winded walking about... I suggest while the rest of the family is out there taking in all that vegetation... you make your way up to restaurant... tell the family you want to go see the Buzzards!
Next Chapter: "I Promise..." a visit to the Okehampton Golf Course and the ancient castle ruins along the river
RHS Garden Rosemoor: Click Here
Buzzard Dark Ale: Click Here
