On the Ale Trail: the "Taw River Inn," Sticklepath

I am back to painting once again after a long hiatus... it takes tremendous effort to scale the photos (do click to enlarge) and to check my facts in order to compile an accurate post.  For now I will ask you check once a week for an update... I have enough material to keep us on the Ale Trail well into the New Year; and thank you for your comments and critique.

The A 30 west from Exeter will take you to Okehampton and on to Cornwall.  Not 20 minutes before Sticklepath - South Zeal we pulled into the Mulberry Inn at Cheriton Bishop.  The Mulberry is situated off the A30 between Exeter and Okehampton on the edge of Dartmoor.  Take the exit towards Cheriton Bishop / Tedburn St Mary, at the roundabout take the first exit toward Okehampton/A30/Cheriton, Bishop/Crockernwell//Dunsford/Drewsington... about a half mile and you are at the Mulberry. Once settled at our table I walked up to the bar and ordered a  “Mulberry” and I cannot tell you who at this time who in the UK makes it.  

Later on with our meal I ordered an Otter Ale... Two or three years ago we all went one evening to this restaurant, it's more of a restaurant than a pub... the meal was outstanding as was the service, the quality this afternoon was the same, it’s nice when things don’t change.  We arrived mid afternoon and pretty much had the place to ourselves.  I recommend you patron this place.

Sticklepath is one of those smaller Devonshire treasures where nothing has changed, the locals are about the friendliest you will find anywhere, and since it is in the south west, life here is slower and it’s green in November; the sun was shining when we arrived and when you look out over the countryside... why would I want to leave?

I so very much appreciate the hospitality of my good brother-in-law for it seemed it was not but a minute we had settled into the comfy chairs he offered refreshment... for our first Ale he suggested” Tapping the Admiral, that is to say a pint of “The Admiral” served in a “Old Speckled Hen” glass which I found suitable for this Ale... and then I had another one.

To me, and this is me thinking about this... some Americans pay little attention to our own history never mind giving a thought about British history and Admiral Horatio Nelson’s victory at sea at Trafalgar.  I on the other hand very much like history, and British history is new to me... That said, the Napoleonic Wars were a nasty time for the British, for that matter all of Europe... and I would have to say he was a nasty piece of work from what I have read... the bottle reads... "when Nelson was killed in the battle of Trafalgar his body was preserved in a cask of Brandy."  Various versions exist of this story exist but it is common thought today that by the early 1800s, preservation of a corpse in liquor was a well-recognized practice when this needed to be done; William Beatty, the surgeon aboard Nelson's vessel, the H.M.S. Victory, opted to do just that after the good Admiral was died just after winning victory at sea... rather then burying Nelson at sea... Beatty preserved Nelson's remains for the trip back to England in a cask of brandy. It is rumored that during the long trip back to England thirsty sailors snuck drinks from this cask carrying Nelson’s corpse, this gave rise to the phrase for a term for illicit drinking called... “Tapping the Admiral.” Gross!  

This story is also disputed in that official records reveal Beatty replenished the Cask containing Nelson’s corpse every day with fresh brandy, topping it off... as Nelson's remains were absorbing so much of the brandy, and also the Cask was lashed to the deck of the ship and was under 24 hour guard, which sounds most reasonable... “Tapping the Admiral, not for the weak of constitution and if true just shows to what lengths a man will go for a drink!

What ever story is true... the alcohol content of “The Admiral,” is 4.0 VOL... and it is a mighty tasty ale... I have a tale that almost ruined our honeymoon many years ago... in Fakenham in East Anglia... Horatio Nelson was born on 29 September, 1758 in a rectory in Burnham Thorpe, Norfolk, England, the rectory today is a pub... in a town just down the road from Fakenham... The pub is Horatio Nelson's family home and much to my delight in this paraffin heating oil stained walled tiny room choking with cigarette smoke in this little tavern... I was served Abbot ale from a keg in the cellar... with shots of Captain Morgan’s 100 Proof Spiced Rum... and funny enough here in Devon on this very afternoon I am drinking “The Admiral,” with the very same brother in law... a true Englishman to the heart.  Somehow thinking about all this Ale and the Admiral... it all worked me up to wanting to take a bit of a walk, I said we should do so as it was such a fine afternoon and my good brother in law suggested one better, that we drop in on his favorite pub just down the hill... the “Taw River Inn,” Sticklepath here we come!

Sticklepath is right on the edge of Dartmoor National Park, the river Taw flows north right through town on it’s way to the Bristol Channel. Sticklepath is said to be a Saxon word meaning 'Steep'. It was... we walked past a water wheel and Roger said, “I would like to buy a building with a water wheel... I would put a generator on it and make my own electricity.”  Because of the outrageous cost of energy in the UK, you can bet everyone able to go solar, Geo thermal, hydro power and wind power is doing so... The wheel belonged to the Finch Foundry, a 19th century working museum. The Taw River Inn is just a short distance from here.  Sticklepath is about 3 miles East of Okehampton and you could easily miss it when passing through on your way from Okehampton on back roads heading East towards the A30. There are other pubs in town, don’t bother for like Roger, this one is my favorite.

On tap was tribute... Tribute was first brewed to commemorate the 1999 solar eclipse. It is a Cornish Ale brewed by the St Austell Brewery in the town in Cornwall of the very same name.  Tribute is one of the UK's top-ten premium cask ales and is 4.2 % ABV, to tell you the truth all this AVB stuff confuses me, I will say it was a mighty find Ale.  Next up was “Doom Bar.”

Doom Bar is also a regional “Cask Ale.” It is brewed right at the Doom Bar on the Camel Estuary near Wadebridge in Rock, Cornwall.  You could Google all these names for interesting reading that would be endless, I suggest you do so.  As for Doom Bar, now this is an ale... Cask ale or cask-conditioned beer is unfiltered-unpasteurised ale served from a cask without additional nitrogen or carbon dioxide pressure and is also known as "Real Ale," you ain't kidding!

I must add the local residents who patron this place made me feel most welcome. My new friends and I had a most pleasant chat, and no issue what so ever was made of my being a Yank.  Lizzy who served our Ales was just about the nicest person, and all the guys were doing their best to take the Mickey out of her, and she just gave it right back.  The Taw River Inn, stop there, enjoy.

Next Post: To the Okehampton Golf Course clubhouse!

Information for your enjoyment:
The Mulberry Inn at Cheriton Bishop: http://www.themulberrydevon.com/
Otter Ale: www.otterbrewery.com/
The Admiral “Battle of Trafalgar” http://www.shepherdneame.co.uk/ :
Fakenham: http://www.fakenhamweb.co.uk/
The Lord Nelson pub in Burnham Thorpe: http://www.nelsonslocal.co.uk/
The Taw River Inn at Sticklepath: http://www.tawriver.co.uk/
Tribute Ale: http://www.tributeale.co.uk/
Doom Bar Ale: http://www.sharpsbrewery.co.uk/our-beers/doombar/